For the last few weeks, I’ve been hanging out at my food blog Bowls of Shtoof writing about well, food, as Soph probably best describes it – through experiences not ingredients. Right now, it’s an archive of travel posts and unusual or interesting foods and finds and a smattering of recipes. It’s an exercise in writing often and about something I really love, so let me know what you think.
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Tagged blog, Daily Delicious, Eat me, Photography, Projects, Reviews, Sheena
In retrospect, it was probably not the best idea to go to a city with no notion of a plan and stay for so long. And I probably didn’t endear myself to a few people with my waywardness but Edinburgh endeared itself to me. It is nothing short of gorgeous. The architecture is stunning, it’s one of the eeriest towns in Europe and in the month of August each year, it transforms into a bustling, vibrant city of festivals. There are many – the jazz festival, the book festival, the marketing festival (umm), the extremely popular annual Military Tattoo but the biggest and brightest is the unmistakable Fringe, the biggest annual performing arts festival in the world.
But yes, just over a week in Edinburgh. I had my fair share of acquaintances, and by the time I’d left I’d definitely made a few friends but for the most part, I hung out with myself. But being alone is good for the ego and it’s hard to feel lonely when there’s always something to capture your imagination. Plus with an assortment of acts, over 2500 in fact, in a variety of venues – from churches to caves, teepees to townhalls, and lively streets made exploring the city on foot and finding something to see or do, pretty damn easy.
Venues
Bathroom stall.
Being the (moderate) history geek I am, I decided to go on a walking tour, a fantastic way to spend an entire afternoon learning facts and fables and unearthing some of the best local spots for eating, drinking and to avoid. The one I did zigzags across the Mile, down to the Grassmarket, stopping behind the Elephant House coffee shop where JK Rowling penned the first two Harry Potter novels (they let the then struggling mother, nurse only a single cup of tea each day and write, and now they do a roaring trade because of it – a lesson in kindness), the haunted cemetery and the school that Hogwarts is inspired by, and the lush Princes Street gardens. I can’t recommend the walking tour enough. They even run a ghost tour and a pub crawl if you’re so inclined.
The main strip, the Royal Mile; much longer than a mile and thus resulting in the unique measure the Scots Mile, runs from Edinburgh Castle on top of Castle Rock to the Palace of Holyroodhouse; is the busiest, filled with a few hundred of the many performers trying to sell their shows. Getting anywhere in a hurry is nearly impossible as you will be handed flyers to all kinds of shows that run the course of the Fringe – live music, stand up comedy, theatre, and musicals, and be distracted by all kinds of street artists, buskers, stalls selling the work of independent artists and caricaturists. Some very good, and some very strange.
Red electric cellist Carol Thorns
I got pretty lucky in Edinburgh. I’ve worked a fair few festivals in my life, and the comedians and artists I’d previously worked with took really very good care of me. I saw maybe twenty different shows – with my favourites being Somewhere over the David O’Doherty, Claudia O’Doherty’s Monster of the Deep 3D, musical trio Axis of Awesome, The Crack, the lovely, whimsical Josie Long and of course, Bombay jam band Something Relevant. Pick up the fat program and dog-end the pages and highlight all the shows you want to see. The best thing about the Fringe is you can splurge on the ones you know are good, buy tickets at the half-price booth and experiment with newer acts, or just catch the dozens of shows that are part of the Free Fringe, and spend your pennies on Boddingtons beer.
Scotland doesn’t provide much for culinary exploits and it’s highly likely that a major percentage of your dietary intake will include scotch, tatties (potatoes), cider, Angus steak burgers and late night shwarmas after late night jazz. I, having become the slightly adventurous version of me (which only happens when I travel), decided to try haggis, and it wasn’t half bad – sort of like meatloaf with added oats and a peppery sauce.
My favourite though was Iglu, a gorgeous little cafe in Newtown recommended by my friend Kelly, a brilliant chef and restaurateur. At Iglu, we played scrabble, drank the most local lagers and ate bunless wild boar burgers with thick, luscious homemade mayonnaise and Earl Grey jelly petit fours.
Nightlife is good too. I was in a state of disarray by midnight, which tends to happen when you’re equal parts blood and alcohol. The Spiegeltent and Assembly tent have some crazy parties, but you’re bound to meet people who will point you in the right direction of that night’s best gig, bar or club. There’s a nice mix of locals, tourists, festival staff and performers about. The latter three returning every season for good reason.
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Tagged Artists, Comedy, Eat me, edinburgh, Music, Photography, Sheena, Travel
Founded by Kavita Mukhi, the Sunday organic farmers market returns for its second season to Nilgiri Gardens, in Bandra, and other locations around Bombay.
Two weeks ago, I headed there with Shaheen and Hayley and bought the most gorgeous red cabbage, so crunchy and fabulous in a stir fry or a sandwich, some pretty peppers to fill with sausage or cream cheese, and some fantastic fresh mint.
Visitors can buy organically certified fresh fruit and vegetables directly from farmers at the market, and there is plenty to choose from – beets with beetstalks, courgettes, broccoli, everything else.
There are your average art market stalls – healing crystals, handmade clothes, natural cosmetics and some sweet handicrafts and toys. There was a stall selling water in beautiful glass bottles that now make stunning vases at home. There’s an organic cafe too, but it didn’t impress much on a day I wasn’t feeling Gujarati thali and golas. But I definitely regret not buying this tasty rice flour cookie mix.
There’s plenty to entertain small humans too, I’m almost jealous I’m too old to lie on the ground and have someone draw my outline in chalk in the play area.
But my favourite find was Anand Bhave, an architecture tutor, eco furniture designer, artist and origami teacher. We stumbled upon his kitschy little round table made entirely from recycled paper and he gave us each carefully calligraphed name bookmarks in natural inks, using fragrant flowers for yellows and oranges; then showed a little girl how to make a dozen hats out of newspaper.
His innate creativity and concern for the environment coupled with his unaffected generosity made it such a delightful encounter. It takes about three months for him to make a piece of furniture, so in January, a sturdy round table will be mine.
All in all, a really nice way to spend a part of the afternoon so go now while it’s still one of the city’s secrets. I hope they get some cheese and free range eggs soon.
The markets are on from 11am to 6pm every Sunday. Check out their bacefook page or the venue roster.
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Tagged Bombay, DIY, Eat me, Environment, General geekiness, Mumbai
So I went to school in New Zealand. It’s beautiful. I’ve been all over the country and yes, it’s exactly like the Lord of the Rings.
Exhibit A, B and C.
My favourite places in NZ are Queenstown, Kaikoura, Wellington, Whangamata and all the tiny towns where tea shops sell whitebait fritter sandwiches, and smoked hapuka pies. (Wow, I’m 24 years old and I’ve been obsessed with weird, delicious food for a long time.) But I digress. I however lived in Auckland. I didn’t like it but it had its merits. Mostly my friends, my boyfriend, baking, West coast beaches, Kingsland, my football teams, the Comedy Festival, Kohu Road icecream, feijoa wine and vodka and Monteiths beer. This post is going to be gargantuan and largely food centric (It’s me?). Brace yourself.
Auckland does burgers well. Murderburger – love their blog and sense of humour, Burgerfuel – the doofer!, Handmade Burger and Burger Wisconsin. There may be more now but these were the places I liked. And you have to get kumara chips and aioli. Good pizza lives at Al Volo in Mt Eden and Il Buco on Ponsonby Rd.
Margarita slushies and nachos and boats every week with Farnaz. I once saw the QE 2 and drank chilli infused Mexican beer. The Viaduct and the other piers are awesome before 7pm. Never after. El Camino in Kingsland and Ahsi Itzcalli have delish Mexican (and the latter Yucatan too, I think)
I’ve been to every cute bakery in Auckland. Twice at least. Hayley and I used to call it research. Our favourite bakeries/cakeries are Queenies (my review!), Agnes Curran, La Tropezziene, Philippes Chocolat, Bakeshop (formerly Brown Sugar Kitchen), Le Petit Village, Little Cake Kitchen.
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Tagged Auckland, Eat me, Guide, New Zealand, Photography, Reviews, Travel
I love soup. One of my favourite folk tales is Stone Soup, where the travellers trick a whole community into donating ingredients for soup which they all share. Anyway, it’s been raining incessantly and I’ve been thinking about the soup place on Degraves St in Melbourne with the giant vats of the best soups. Anyone who has visited me in my new home knows all I do these days is stay indoors, wear (ugly) floral maxi dresses and cook. I love making things that require only a handful of ingredients, so anything on Martha Stewart is out. I’ve been making up all the recipes. Cooking by intuition. Farfalle with coriander and walnuts, salami sandwiches with avocado and pesto, tumeric and cumin roasted cauliflower. Yesterday I listened to Manu Chao, thought of Rushad and made potato soup. It was pouring outside and my house was so lovely and breezy, that it just seemed apt. I simmered it for a good hour or so but it was so melty and delicious and worth it. It was also really filling. I made up the recipe so I thought I’d type it out so I could remember it for the future. I miss this boy with all my heart.
Serves 2
Ingredients:
5 floury large potatoes
half a cube of chicken or vegetable stock (or make your own)
3 onions
4 garlic cloves
butter or olive oil
cracked pepper
Wash, peel, dice and bring the potatoes to boil covering them with enough water. Peel and add the cloves of garlic.
Saute the onions in butter or oil over medium heat until they soften slightly and even char a wee bit. Add it to the pot and simmer. Add more water if levels get too low. Stir occasionally.
It’s done when it has a creamy consistency. Mash with a fork or potato masher until the soup is as smooth as you’d like. Taste and season.
Stir through more butter, or a spoonful of wasabi, or add tobasco if you’d like. Serve with some crusty bread.
EAT.
LISTEN.
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Tagged Daily Delicious, Eat me, manu chao, Music, Potato soup, recipe, Sheena, soup, Video
Found these pictures and nearly died of happiness. Self explanatory? I think so.
I know I haven’t posted a review in about fifty years but that’s all changing now with the very sunny Yellow Tree Cafe that’s opened up the road from me. White washed but far from blah, Soheil and I visited when I was having a pretty horrid day but the cool, breeziness of the cafe’s aquamarine and white wicker decor, coupled with its quirky wall illustrations and great little bar was enough to wash away all gloominess. The paper menu was rife with recommendations but despite the towering burgers that arrived at the next table, we opted for some Italian and it didn’t disappoint. My only qualm was the slow service, our mains taking over forty minutes to arrive and when they did, they came after each other so we were tapping our fingers while the other ate. But my ravioli was perfect and his risotto, hearty and delicious. Peepshow below.
Yellow Tree Cafe, 33rd and Ambedkar Rd Junction, Bandra (W), Mumbai
Flash back a few years when bangs, blonde highlights, black and white, napping between lectures, Scrumpy cuddles, One Tree Hill marathons and afternoons baking with Hayley and Soheil were de rigueur. We (They) made babaghanoush and brownies that day also, and also marshmallows I think. Whatever, I made us endless cups of tea and pored over David LaChapelle’s Artists and Prostitutes. Pretty sure we ate half the nougat before it set even. You know what they say about too many cooks.
So I have some sort of heinous blood disorder right now which is putting a ban on basically anything fun. But human conditioning insists my craving levels are at an all time high. I feel like pani puri so bad. If I had to rank my favourite Indian street foods, it would hands down be number one! If I had it my way, I’d be putting vodka in my pani puri this weekend. (Holi hai!) But instead, I’ll be eating fruit and reading Cappuccino Dusk and We Are Like This Only in bed. Loving Indian authors! My friend Lionel took a video of me ordering some the other day. Please note that you will never get these 13 seconds of your life back.
I couldn’t hold out. Noreen and I made pie. And it was goooooood. And she is awesome.
And because I love you, you can make some also. SUPER. EASY.
