Tag Archives: Ladakh

Exploring Leh Ladakh

Ladakh is just so beautiful, you don’t really have to engage in any activity to enjoy it. The sky is a brilliant shade of blue unlike anything I have ever seen. And the mountains are breathtaking especially at sunrise and sunset.

But if you must venture far, Tsomoriri Lake and Pangong Lake that borders China and India are not to be missed, although we did cos we’re assholes. Or you can go on an organised trek. Or white water rafting on the Indus or Zanskar Rivers. For people like me who prefer gentler activities, like watching people and scouring markets and visiting monks in monasteries, you’re in luck.

We hired a car to take us to the Hemis monastery and Thiksey monastery and Shey Palace. They were bold structures with smiling monks and remarkable heritage with lots of little nooks to explore. I especially loved the prayer halls in the monasteries. They were filled with beautiful light, coloured rugs and gold statues, and the comforting smell of warm milk and incense. Wonderful to meditate in.

Leh is a cute little town, covered in colourful prayer flags with a great marketplace full of interesting faces to see and things to buy. I bought some satin pants, a shopping bag and some crazy hair ties and befriended two adorable little girls drawing Tibetan flags. Tibetan markets are full of both literal and metaphorical gems. I bought a few pretty trinkets including three perfume bottles, fashioned out of old coins or pure silver and turquoise.

And when you’re ravenous, find a little garden or cheery rooftop cafe to eat momos and soup.

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Bread story

I’m really fascinated with methods of cooking that I can’t do (i.e. most). I love alternative ovens for instance. Wood fired pizza from ovens like this and this is the most phenomenal thing. Anywho, so in Leh when I lost my friends (Vodafone has no cellphone coverage in Ladakh), I wandered the bazaar finding all these great little alleys with shops selling dried apricots and butchers and grocers. And then I stumbled upon this tiny bread workshop. The three owners were so polite and friendly when explaining to me the bread making process as I stood outside and watched. Which was nice, grumpy bakers don’t really do it for me. They make big batches of dough, rolling them into balls, finger pressing and flattening them. The dough is pressed with a poker against the walls of the coal fired oven which is a literally a hole in the floor. The dough sticks to the sides and when it is ready, slides off easily, freshly baked and ready for sale.

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The Ladakh Confluence: Music and mountains

28th August, 2009. The sun was scorching and a group of maroon robed musical monks paraded across the Sindhu Ghat festival site in Choglamsar some 8km from Leh declaring it open. We found the only respite from the sun in the shade of a lonely tree, prime real estate and sharing the space, we met some of the people who were to become our best companions for the next four days. The small crowd – a mix of travellers and creatives and hippies and media all came together at 11, 500 feet with a backdrop unlike any other to celebrate local and international music in the first festival of its kind.

Vedanth Bharadwaj gave me goosebumps, his lilting voice and songs by the great poet Kabir enchanting. I loved Anna Van Riel and her cute confessional songs and stories, each a delightful confection. Shaa’ir and Func were wonderful – Monica Sharma Dogra is a slam poet gypsy goddess, I liked both their electronic and acoustic sets. I loved the dynamic between Talvin Singh (tabla) and Rahul Sharma (santoor). Even the moon danced in the sky. Sharma, talented, sexy man that he is was so expressive and amazing. Davide Swarup and Ortal Pelleg mesmerised. Portugal’s Terrakota and the energy they brought to the stage were fantastic. Austrian beatbox boyband Bauchklang were brilliant. But nobody made as big an impression on me as Kutle Khan, the morchang and khartal playing frontman from Rajasthan Roots. What a rockstar. Fucking. Hell.

There were a few glitches and hitches in the planning and execution and the turnout could have been better, but apart from swampy feet, I have nothing but good memories of the festival – the organisers, a lovely and passionate bunch of people, sure to iron out the kinks for subsequent events.

Other highlights were the beautiful solar powered film tent filled with comfortable mattresses that showcased short films each day. A water refill tent which I know did wonders to reduce plastic – I know we refilled ours at least 30 times. The food and chai tent where Tsewang, a cute 11 year old boy serenaded us. The after parties! The compostable Ladakhi longdrop for a loo. Yeah, not so much. That novelty ran out real fast.

Often, we were treated to impromptu performances. Seems everyone became a musician in the mountains. Witnessing these spontaneous jams was awe-inspiring.  My absolute favourite thing were the drum circles each night. We’d gather around bonfires, artists included each person with an instrument, a circle of djembe players and two rows of percussionists behind them with Roberto Narain orchestrating the whole thing. Powerful, magical stuff.

Peep the show.

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Postcards from Leh: Bed and breakfast

Ladakh was splendid. I have so much to say about my time in the mountains but one or two stories at a time. Everything was so picturesque, it’s a wonder I had time to do anything except take photographs. But I found it so lovely, I didn’t hide behind the lens much at all, instead soaking it all up with my biggest awe-face on.

The place we stayed, a little family run guesthouse called Zeejeed Palace was so cute. In the mornings, our rooms were filled with such glorious light, warming the floral curtains and blankets before we woke up. It had a wonderful flower and vegetable garden. You could literally fall asleep in a cabbage patch. Roses grew beside onion bulbs. Out of sight, the owner’s kids played badminton and squealed. I loved it.

Food was unfortunately not as exciting an affair. The altitude screwed with my digestion in a major way, so much in fact, I had to go on a ‘Digene-diet’, dropping anti acidity pills like beats. But it wasn’t all bad. Apricots from the tree made up for the DIY coffee. I had a phenomenal omelette once for breakfast. The momos were on occasion, incredible, particularly the potato and cheese ones. The traditional Ladakhi dish of ‘skyu’ – hand rolled pasta with vegetables was nice too. And our beverage of choice – a hot lemon and honey drink with mint leaves and ginger was delicious, warming our bones on chilly days and nights.

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P.S. There are a million accommodation options in Ladakh, ranging from the affordable to the luxurious, so you’re spoilt for choice really. We booked ours through Tenzin Londen of Tibet Trail – tibettrail@gmail.com, who was very prompt and professional. But landing in Leh and shopping around for a place isn’t a bad idea either. If you have any questions, you can always hit me up.