Tag Archives: Tokyo

Tsukiji Fish Market

Most Tokyo must-do lists online suggest the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, otherwise known as Tsukiji fish market. It’s famous for being the world’s biggest fish and seafood wholesale market. The fish is so fresh, they come off boats and are whizzed to Tsukiji before dawn, where they are then set up for sale or auction. We arrived as early as we could, around 530am and other gaijin (foreigners) must have got the same memo because they were out in full force, all of us making ourselves present at the most inconvenient hour.

By that time, the whole place is almost wholly set up, the frozen tuna auctions that we could only watch from a distance wrapping up, so we started  to explore. Lingering around any one area is almost impossible because of the minimal space between stalls, the carts and delivery vehicles and the slow but steady influx of local buyers, so you must look, buy and walk.

If you ever get to go, watch out for the weird delivery vehicles. They drive these whirring things around at break neck speed and there’s plenty of them, all making hasty deliveries with zero acknowledgement of laymen present but there were no casualties, although despite my current-words-to-live-by ‘DEATH IS NOT AN OPTION’,  I felt like I was close to being run over atleast four times. Nothing like being scared shitless first thing in the morning. 

The vast quantities of fresh fish and seafood and this place that runs like clockwork are all a little awe inspiring. They have almost everything you can imagine in the ocean, in polystyrene boxes out of it, so fresh, you can’t even smell it and some of it even alive. I saw sea urchins, all sorts of shellfish, lobster and crab, salmon, squid, tuna, octopus, swordfish, oh crap I’m not very good at naming sea creatures, sardines, umm. It ranges from the affordable to the expensive to the outrageous, and I wanted to buy some but settled on walking to the shops outside, to jogai shijo (outer market) and had some prepared for me instead.

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Yakitori lane

Trying to find dinner, on a night we decided to spend at an internet and manga cafe so we could make it to Tsukiji Fish Market early the next morning, we find this tiny, bustling alleyway filled with yakitori, hot pot and yakiniku bars. I’m in awe, as usual, having never seen anything like it, the closest being Melbourne’s Chinatown which is nothing like it. So the mind boggles.

We walk up the whole alley, I take a few candids, it’s busy and there are not enough seats for three in the places I’d like to sit down at. I definitely want a seat out in the alleyway, a cool respite from the stuffy inside. We pass Bar Albatross, a quirky and welcome addition to the ramshackle laneway, a totally classy little red nomiya with a dazzling chandelier. I decide on the first place I liked, where a cheerful woman yelled out irrashaimase (welcome).

We sit, order Sapporo – Japanese beer is delicious and choose a yakitori set, skewered meat galore quite literally grilled right before our eyes. An older Japanese man sitting beside us, tells me he used to be a photographer and graphic designer and tells us if we guess his age, he’ll buy us anything off the menu we want. We lose and he buys us beer anyway. We have to eventually stop him from keeping it up because we want to go see Tokyo from the top of the Shinjuku Metropolitan Government Building - an incredible view of the city. He takes a photo of us with my camera and was so funny and lovely, that I am harbouring a huge soft spot for Japanese senior citizens. Bless.

I want to try sake but am saving my first sip for when my friend Daniel visits us this weekend. I just found out the alley is often called Shonben Yokocho (or Piss Alley). Sexy. But I digress, the bill arrives. It’s almost a thousand yen more than we expect. Another lesson learnt.  I could censor all these lessons like the PR bitch I was probably destined to be and make Tokyo out to be some utopia, but there are hidden costs in many situatons. The lady has applied a seating charge of ¥300 per person onto our bill, and her yelling welcome in four languages over the top of us to get customers wasn’t cheerful for all that long. Still the beer had made me giggly and I’d had a super time.

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Welcome to the neighbourhood

I’m a little bit in love with the place I’m staying in. It’s no Park Hyatt where Lost in Translation was filmed, neither is it a capsule hotel in Akihabara (thank mercy!) nor a love hotel in Shibuya but the neighbourhood is so cute and I like riding Jenny’s bicycle in the sun all over it. Brimming with cute houses, and hundreds of fruit and vegetable patches and gardens, big and small. This is just confirming my new genius plan to try my hand at biodynamic farming, and I’m thinking of doing a short course in it here, an amazing girl I recently talked to has and recommended it. Even out the back door is a garden with lines and lines of newly planted saplings. And the produce is sometimes sold. And how. Scroll down to see.

Growing.

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Selling.

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Honesty boxes. All over the show and they work. This is right in the city suburbs! Alas, nothing for sale today!

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¥200 for a big bunch of edamame. 

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A vegetable vending machine! Apparently, they’re restocked in the morning and this was late afternoon but I know right!

Postcard from Tokyo: Little fish

The Japanese love their fish! The supermarket has rows and rows of fish and seafood, and this afternoon, I had the best sushi experience of my entire life, and goddamn I’ve eaten a lot of handrolls. I’ve been excited about visiting the world famous Tsukiji Fish Market and on Tuesday morning, we’re going! This trip is turning out to be completely food centric but I am not complaining. If it means I have to ride Jenny’s bicycle a bit more, then so freaking be it. I love food.

And speaking of fish, Jenny showed me this great little shop in the suburb of Shin-tokorozawa that sells fish shaped waffles with all sorts of yummy fillings – custard, cream, chocolate, etc. We shared one filled with mango cream. It was so good.

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Meet Jenny.

One night in a counter bar

Last night was so surreal, I’m not sure it actually happened but this slight hangover tells me otherwise. As planned, after a day of utter laziness, Phil (Phiru in Japanese) and I set off to have a drink at one of those hidden dives I mentioned before. We stood outside being too chicken shit to go in for a minute because we had no idea what to expect except than it was going to be an intimate setting. We shouldn’t have worried because we pretty much ended up having one of the best and most memorable nights of our lives at this tiny bar .

In the day, you can’t even tell that it is a bar, but after sunset, the glowing lantern gives some indication.There are apparently a handful of these pintsized counter bars with enough room for only a few hidden all over the city, and have been since before World War 2. Inside this little wooden nomiya as they are called, were the two owners, an elderly husband and wife and this vivacious woman, eating her dinner and drinking soju and tomato juice. She loved us and a few minutes after she arrived, disappeared on a short walk where we’re sure she grabbed her friend and invited her back to the bar. They only spoke Japanese but knew a few words and phrases in English like ‘nice to meet you’, ‘peace’, ‘smile’ (sumairu) and how to sing Daniel Boone’s Beautiful Sunday in a booming, hearty voice. What the.

Despite my limited language skills, they talked to me in Japanese for hours and each bought us a huge bottle of Asahi as ‘puresento‘. I lost count of how many tiny glasses of beer I drank because these two little old ladies kept topping us up and saying ‘kanpai’ (cheers). Tomoko, the lady beside me reminded me awfully much of my paternal grandmother, she was so cute and kept hugging me. She kept giving me little gifts too, which threw me off a bit. She  gave me a phone card worth more than ¥1000, an omiyage (souvenir) of a little cake filled with marzipan inside, a little dangly beaded trinket from her phone and her address on a piece of paper. I wrote her a little note in basic hiragana on a passport sized photograph and promised to write to her or call her. 

When I stood up after, my legs almost buckled because I was so tipsy and hadn’t even realised. It was such a great little haunt. I didn’t take too many photos of the awesome decor but there were laughing buddhas, paintings, planters and all sorts. We were also given some some cold soba noodles and tofu – from the selection of food on the counter. I must warn you that in Japan if you receive snacks at a bar, it does not mean they are complimentary. If you choose to accept them, you will most likely be charged and we learnt this last night. But wow, for 900 all up, totally worth every yen.

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Sumimasen

I am in Tokyo!

After wearing half my wardrobe and I’m talking serious denim on denim here to avoid overweight baggage charges and eating enough valium to immunise me against the billion cranky babies on the 9 hour flight, I arrived in Tokyo happy as a clam last night. Alas, my first twelve hours were no piece of cake. My first FEIL* was changing my money at the airport, I think I got the worst exchange rate ever, then four hours of train rides, the worst sleep, Jehovahs Witnesses at the door, seeing a poor little girl getting her foot stuck in her mum’s bike wheel all equated to frustration. All that aside, I have been reunited with my best friend Jenny and today was remarkably better although I wish I spoke more Japanese. I’m so lost in translation right now. 

Today, Jenny’s boyfriend Phil and I went for a walk and explored Nigashi Murayama where I’m staying, about 30 minutes from Shinjuku and I fell a little bit in love with Japan. Everyone rides bicycles! We went on a walk by the river, and discovered all these great tiny bars, and Phil told me stories of how people open these little restaurants in the back of their houses to avoid paying the hefty associated taxes, and it’s just like being a guest in their home, completely authentic and amazing. The shutter was down this afternoon but I’m dying to go have a drink at this little hole in the wall tomorrow night. Shhh.

Also, I went grocery shopping for the first time here. I sort of like this half traveller, half local thing I’m doing. Everything was in Japanese, but through the power of recognition, we returned with a bag of groceries to make ginger chicken udon with vegetables for dinner, plus wasabi chips, a coffee log cake and gyoza. I said iie (no) to a free plastic bag when I was shopping and they actually shaved ¥2 off my bill in good will. I loved that. 

Oh and I managed to check off ‘Eat takoyaki’ off my to-do list. We ordered it out on the street, then went into a little indoor seating area and boy oh boy, it was so good, all hot and gooey, with tender chunks of octopus inside and fish flakes fluttering on top and some of that delicious Japanese mayonnaise. 

Here are some pictures from my day. 

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Tempura. Oishii.

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Keisei line = oh noes.

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Bojangles Music Bar.

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Socks and shoes I loved.

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Tokyo: Explore by Amber

This is part 2 of Code for Something Amber’s guest post on Tokyo – Explore. I know I’ll be ticking off most of those things when I get to Japan and I’m pretty sure all pizza should be mouse shaped. The list of links at the end is also just brilliant. You can read part 1, Eat and Sleep here. 

London, Paris, New York… Tokyo. You’ve seen the films, read the books, and you know you’re in love long before you arrive. I travelled to Japan in 2007 (gosh, has it been that long?) – and still the sweet scent of fresh green tea, the retina gouging lights of Shinjuku and the tranquil sounds at the Meiji Shrine haunt my thoughts.  If you’re lucky enough to be visiting this mega metropolis, here are a few essential moments you can’t miss!

View over Tokyo

EXPLORE

- Let your ears down at Tokyo Disney. Embrace, snuggle, and feed your inner child so much sugar that it vomits. Or buy nothing, save a mouse pizza or two. Either way it’s brilliant! When it comes to rides, I particularly recommend Pooh’s Hunny Hunt. This attraction is psychedelic enough to begin with – but when you throw in hordes of Japanese schoolgirls shrieking in faux horror, it becomes truly trippy. Allow one full day for a Disney visit.

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- Play dress ups. If you’re an anime addict, lolita luvvie, or a candy raver kid, costume shopping should be high on your list. However, browsers beware, costumes hanging in a window doth not make a costume shop! Do not do as I did, dragging my mild mannered English friend headlong into the filthiest sex store I’ve ever seen. An experience was had in any case; just make sure your companions are up for it before you charge inside.

- Go wild in toy town. Another must do for the eternally youthful is a trip to one of Tokyo’s iconic toy stores. I loved shopping at the Kiddyland flagship on Omotesando, Harajuku. Stocking both Japanese and international brands, you’ll find several floors of plush, adorable fun.  Or perhaps you consider yourself to have a more grown up taste? Head to Nakano Broadway – the destination for vintage, retro and rare collectibles. From watches to the specialty Mandrake store, they have everything a refined geek desires.

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- Become a face in the crowd. Watch people teeming across one of the world’s busiest intersections – the mesmerising Shibuya Crossing. You can’t miss it – it’s a scrambled junction of roads right at the doorstep of Shibuya Station. Buy a Frappe and take a perch on the second floor of the Starbucks – it’s a great vantage point.

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- Make some new animal friends. Renowned for their appreciation of all things adorable, Tokyo citizens naturally only allow the sweetest faces to become their pets. Stopping in at a local pet store will have you begging for mercy – it’s real life cute overload!

Check out the following resources for other individual takes on Tokyo: 

* Gilda’s Guide to Tokyo is a really cute, fun and heartfelt guide from someone who really loves the city. 

* Jean Snow is a Tokyo resident with all the latest design, art, pop culture and gaming news. If it’s featured on his site then it’s well worth further investigation. 

*Annette from Nut & Bee is a big fan of all things Japanese! When she was in Tokyo last she wrote comprehensive journal entries describing her experiences – and they are full of wonderful tidbits.         

* Superfuture’s Tokyo guide (US$20) is a great push in the right direction if you’re going to indulge in some serious Tokyo materialistic-shiny-shopping fantasies. 

*Modern art junkie? Tokyo Art Beat is a fantastic bilingual website to hit up for gallery and event listings.

Tokyo – Eat and Sleep by Amber

This is the first guest post on this is weeny. I land in Tokyo in less than three weeks and have been busy conjuring up delicious plans in my head and with my best friend Jenny. I knew that Amber whose blog Code for Something I read religiously had been to Tokyo before and with similar tastes in many good things asked her to compile a guide to Tokyo to both be published here and be mega useful in my travels. She not only obliged but then she totally, completely outdid herself with an uber-post. This is part 1 – Eat and Sleep; and part 2, Explore will go up tomorrow. Thank you Amber!

FOOD

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- Embrace the unknown. Going to a sushi train restaurant and realising there is no way you know what’s on top of that Nigirizushi. Fall into the abyss of chance and try whatever takes your fancy. At the end of your meal your smiling waiter may present you with an English-pictorial menu, but under no circumstances read it. Just leave, feeling smug about your curiosity and open-minded palate.

- Rock out in Harajuku. On Sundays, Yoyogi Park (the corner near Harajuku Station in particular), comes alive with all sorts of fabulous people. You will probably be lucky enough to see some FRUiTS characters, the Tokyo Rockabilly Club and various other personalities, sharing their talents with the world.  There will be a few street food vendors lurking in the vicinity – so go buy a tray of tako yaki (a dough ball filled with octopus, onions, vegetables, ginger and garlic), find a seat and watch the action!

- Buy a can of nectar from one of the city’s army of vending machines. Apparently Japan has more vending machine per capita than any other county in the world, so one will never be too far away. Seek out the weirdest flavour available and whether it’s a green grape soda, or hot canned coffee, prepare for a truly Japanese taste sensation.

 

SHELTER

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- Get a well-designed night’s sleep! The Claska Hotel in Meguro is the one place in Tokyo you have to stay at – if only for a night. It’s a small hike from the nearest metro station, but this boutique hotel is a wonderland worth making a journey for. Hotel amenities include a puppy day spa, a design bookstore, free electric bike hire, a local vintage shopping guide and a rooftop garden with a stunning view! Seriously, just go – how many reasons do you need?

- Tread the floors of a Ryokan. Ryokans are a type of traditional Japanese inn; this means you’re in for Tatami mats (straw floor coverings), shared bathrooms and slippered feet. Don’t be scared though, it’s a wonderful experience! Breakfast is usually included when you stay at a Ryokan, making it a cinch for you to try a proper Japanese breakfast. Miso soup and fish may seem strange so early in the morning, but I really encourage you to give it a taste.

[I booked my stay at the Homiekan Ryokan through Japanese Guest Houses; I really recommend them, it made a potentially fraught process super easy.]